A Fig Tree on Equator
Great eye contact - a lioness resting in a fig tree on the equator in gorgeous evening light
We were at the end of a productive morning drive through Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, when Kamya’s radio sparked into life. A colleague in another safari vehicle had spotted lions in a tree. The beautiful morning light had all but gone as the sun climbed high. It was getting hot – uncomfortably so in the direct sunlight. The heat haze lay thick along the horizon and photography was tricky as a result. We decided to do a bit of reconnaissance and looped around to the tree to take a look at the lions on our way back to camp.
An iPhone snapshot of the lion in the fig tree. The stifling heat and harsh midday sun meant this lion was tucked away, high up. Far from ideal conditions for photography and even more tricky with an iPhone
As we approached this lone tree in the middle of the savannah, we caught a glimpse of two lionesses high up on the tree’s trunks. Their bellies seemed full, and they were clearly settling in the shade and the relative coolness of the light breeze. As we observed this majestic fig tree with the lazy lionesses, we agreed that this was a place to re-visit later, when the sun would be setting and the light would do this picturesque scene justice. It was odds-on that the lions would be there when we planned to return, as long as we could catch them before they decided to hunt again at dusk.
This lioness is slowly waking up from her slumber as the light fades and the air gets cooler
The scene with the lions in the fig tree had clear potential, but the light was too harsh and hard just before noon, so it was worth planning to return later. With so many photography opportunities in this vast and beautiful national park on the equator in southwestern Uganda, we had to make a call around what subjects and locations to focus on. And this fig tree was added to that evening’s list.
Patience pays off - after an hour of waiting the lions started to move …
The radio message to Kamya was also received by other safari vehicles in the park. Unsurprisingly three other vehicles arrived in the 10 minutes we’d stopped at the fig tree. iPhones, iPads and cameras popped up and plenty of photos and videos were captured in quick succession. And as soon as the vehicles had arrived, they drove off … photo of a lion in a tree … tick … next stop please. I am not sure many of those tourists even knew it was a fig tree. And what about the lions? They were snoozing, eyes closed, mostly in the shade, with harsh backlight from the sun high in the sky. Not sure the photos captured were that great as a result. But does that matter? They will have an image which will remind them of a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Some of those images may be worth printing and framing, but I suspect the vast majority will live in the cloud, to be viewed on mobile phone screens. Billions of images are shot like this each year. A snap recording of a moment in life – of a special occasion or location. The quality of the image isn’t the point. It triggers a memory. It is merely a part of the wider holiday experience.
The old gnarly fig tree on the savannah
But what if they had at least entertained the idea of returning to this beautiful tree when the sun would be lower on the horizon and the light would be glowing warm. As the temperature dropped the lions would become more active and photogenic as a result. They may not have had the time to return. Their tour schedule possibly wouldn’t allow it. They had that one moment and they snapped it.
The sun is about to set. It is time to hunt …
We, on the other hand, had options. With photography the prime reason for our 4-day stay in Queen Elizabeth National Park returning that evening to the same fig tree was a no-brainer. It was a stunning scene. We circled the tree to optimise the viewpoint in terms of the direction of the sinking sunlight and the position of the lions. And then we waited … the lower the sun, the better the light, and the more active the lions … eyes opened, heads were raised, legs stretched. We spent more than 2 hours in the same spot, observing and shooting images, and soaking in this fantastic scene and beautiful sunset. In a strange way, time seems to slow down on location in the wilderness when you are patient and take the time the subject and location deserve. That is a great feeling: the sense of peace, the beauty, the smell of nature and the sound wildlife. This idyll was only interrupted on a handful of occasions by other safari vehicles turning up for the obligatory 5 minutes and a quick snapshot. None of them took the time to really observe this wonderful scene and reflect on it. For me, that is their loss. For them, they got the snap of a lion in a tree … tick. In our different ways we are all happy and that is all that matters. 😊